Santorini assyrtiko is a dream of a white, prized for its bone-dry minerality, its scent of meadow flowers and salt – at once soothingly floral and stingingly marine – and its pithy flavour of lemons and white grapefruit.  It’s also, suddenly, one of the most expensive of any regional appellation. Some of the best wines, such as Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko 2021, Santorini (14.5%; Hedonism, £35.80), which combines a chiffony lightness with a stern mineral core, sell on tight allocation. It’s […]