Emoji

I’m not sure exactly when I noticed it, but sometime in the last four weeks I realized that my Instagram feed was dominated by two things: 1) sanctimonious parenting-advice reels and 2) puzzling photos of restaurant dishes adorned by what can best be described as poop-emoji swirls. At Antico Nuovo in Los Angeles, Chad Colby offers ribbons of duck liver as an accompaniment to house-made focaccia. In New York City, Ignacio Mattos’s crew at Lodi is piping swirls of chicken […]