nights

It’s not just the kitchen that changes but ingredients too. In Northern Ireland you used to be able to pick blackberries until the end of September, even early October, so we made the first crumble then, blackberries and apples under a crust of toasted hazelnuts, butter, wholemeal flour and brown sugar. Every year I think about Seamus Heaney’s Blackberry-Picking, a melancholic poem that reminds you how violently things can change in this season. The picked berries never last until the […]